Backpacking Phang Nga and Phi Phi with a 1-year-old — the trip that started it all

April 2 – 9, 2012

This is the trip that started everything. In April 2012 we packed our bags, grabbed the stroller, and flew to Thailand with Noah who was 1 year and 8 months old. Line was pregnant with Vitus. We had no idea what we were doing, no masterplan, no reservations beyond the first night — just a vague idea that we wanted to explore the Phang Nga and Krabi coast and see if this whole "traveling with a baby" thing was even possible. Spoiler: it was not only possible, it was wonderful, and it completely changed how we see the world. Discovering Thailand through Noah's eyes opened up a whole new dimension of travel for us.

Family selfie on the beach — Jesper, Noah and Line

Day 1 — April 2: Arriving in paradise

We arrived at our first beach and immediately understood why people fall in love with this part of Thailand. White sand, warm shallow water, and those iconic limestone karst islands rising out of the sea right in front of us. Noah was in his blue rashguard and checked sun hat, and within minutes he was sitting in the sand completely absorbed in his beach toys. He could not have cared less about the spectacular scenery — he had sand and a shovel and that was all he needed.

Noah playing on the beach with karst islands in the background

We found a wooden swing hanging from the trees right on the beach, and Jesper sat there with Noah on his lap just taking it all in. The water was so calm and warm it felt like a bathtub, and Noah was pointing at the islands making excited noises. At 1 year and 8 months, he couldn't say much yet, but the enthusiasm was unmistakable.

Jesper and Noah on a beach swing

In the evening, Jesper took Noah for a swim as the sun was going down. The karst islands turned into dark silhouettes against the sky and the water was completely still. It was one of those moments where you think — OK, this was a good decision.

Night swimming with karst islands silhouetted

Day 2 — April 3: Beach bungalow life

We were staying at a small beach bungalow place — the kind where you step out the door and you're basically on the beach. Noah loved running around the sandy grounds between the palm trees. For a toddler still finding his feet, this was basically an obstacle course and an adventure playground rolled into one.

Noah exploring the bungalow grounds

In the late afternoon we walked along the beach and caught a beautiful sunset. The sky turned pink and purple, and there was a small island off the shore that made everything look like a postcard. We felt very far from Denmark.

Jesper holding Noah on the beach at sunset

Day 3 — April 4: Eating out Thai style and catching a ferry

One of the things we quickly learned is that eating out with a baby in Thailand is incredibly easy. The locals absolutely love kids, and everywhere we went people would come over and play with Noah or bring him something. This evening we found a local Thai place and Noah was happily chilling in his stroller while we ate. It was our first real family dinner out in Thailand and it felt completely natural.

Family dinner at a local Thai restaurant

We also took a ferry to continue our journey south. Jesper was holding Noah and standing on the deck watching the port town disappear behind us. The ferry had these beautiful bright blue railings with ornamental patterns — very Thai. Noah was fascinated by the water and the boats.

Jesper and Noah on the ferry

Days 4–8 — April 5–9: Phi Phi Islands

We took a ferry to Phi Phi and ended up staying for several days. Our first stop was Maya Bay — yes, THE Maya Bay from the movie "The Beach." And yes, it was absolutely packed with tourists. But honestly? Standing there with Noah on his shoulders, surrounded by those insane limestone cliffs and that turquoise water, Jesper didn't care one bit about the crowds. It was breathtaking.

Jesper with Noah on his shoulders at Maya Bay

Noah wore his green arm floaties and his checked hat and looked like the happiest little tourist on the beach. Line stayed on the tour boat with the stroller for parts of the trip because climbing in and out of longtail boats with a pregnant belly, a toddler, AND a stroller was... let's call it challenging. But the views from the boat were just as spectacular.

Line on the tour boat with dramatic cliffs behind

We found a lovely little white bungalow right near the beach on Phi Phi. This is the beauty of backpacking Thailand — you just show up, find a place, and it's usually both charming and cheap. The longtail boats were lined up on the white sand beach, the water was crystal clear, and we thought: we could stay here forever.

Longtail boats on a white sand beach

Our white beach bungalow on Phi Phi

We hired a longtail boat and explored the coast around Phi Phi. Jesper sat with Noah in the front of the boat and Noah was just staring at the turquoise water with his mouth open. There is something about seeing your toddler on a longtail boat in Thailand that makes you feel like you're doing parenthood right.

Jesper and Noah on a longtail boat

Line took Noah into the water and he absolutely loved it. With his green arm floaties on, he was splashing around in the warm, shallow, crystal clear water like he'd been doing it all his life. This was probably the first time he really went "swimming" and his face was pure joy.

Line and Noah swimming in turquoise water

When the tide went out, the beach turned into this huge flat playground. Line walked out into the shallow water with Noah and he was picking up shells and seaweed and carrying them around like treasures. You could clearly see Line's pregnant belly in the photos from these days — we were very much a family of soon-to-be four on this trip.

Line and Noah exploring at low tide on Phi Phi

We upgraded to a bigger room with dark tile floors and a proper bathroom. Backpacking with a toddler means you appreciate a good room more than you ever did before.

Our hotel room on Phi Phi

The days on Phi Phi convinced us that this whole "traveling with a baby" thing was not just possible — it was wonderful. Noah was thriving: swimming, exploring, eating, and charming everyone he met. We were not ready to go home. So we packed up and headed south to Koh Lanta, where we would have the most terrifying and the most beautiful experiences of the entire trip.

Continue reading: Koh Lanta, surviving a tsunami warning, and exploring Krabi with a 1-year-old →

Our second trip: Christmas in Thailand with a 3-month-old — 8 months later we were back →

Category: Thailand

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