This is the trip that started everything. In April 2012 we packed our bags, grabbed the stroller, and flew to Thailand with Noah who was 1 year and 8 months old. Line was pregnant with Vitus. We had no idea what we were doing, no masterplan, no reservations beyond the first night — just a vague idea that we wanted to explore the Phang Nga and Krabi coast and see if this whole "traveling with a baby" thing was even possible. Spoiler: it was not only possible, it was wonderful, and it completely changed how we see the world. Discovering Thailand through Noah's eyes opened up a whole new dimension of travel for us.
Day 1 — April 2: Arriving in paradise
We arrived at our first beach and immediately understood why people fall in love with this part of Thailand. White sand, warm shallow water, and those iconic limestone karst islands rising out of the sea right in front of us. Noah was in his blue rashguard and checked sun hat, and within minutes he was already hard at work — head down, red spade in hand, excavating the beach with the focused intensity of a small engineer. The spectacular karst islands behind him? Completely beneath his notice. There was sand to be moved.
We found a wooden swing hanging from the trees right on the beach, and Jesper sat there with Noah on his lap just taking it all in. The water was so calm and warm it felt like a bathtub, and Noah was pointing at the islands making excited noises. At 1 year and 8 months, he couldn't say much yet, but the enthusiasm was unmistakable.
In the evening, Jesper took Noah for a swim as the sun was going down. The karst islands turned into dark silhouettes against the sky and the water was completely still. It was one of those moments where you think — OK, this was a good decision.
Day 2 — April 3: Beach bungalow life
We were staying at a small beach bungalow place — the kind where you step out the door and you're basically on the beach. Noah loved running around the sandy grounds between the palm trees. For a toddler still finding his feet, this was basically an obstacle course and an adventure playground rolled into one.
In the late afternoon we walked along the beach and caught a beautiful sunset. The sky turned pink and purple, and there was a small island off the shore that made everything look like a postcard. We felt very far from Denmark.
Day 3 — April 4: Eating out Thai style and catching a ferry
One of the things we quickly learned is that eating out with a baby in Thailand is incredibly easy. The locals absolutely love kids, and everywhere we went people would come over and play with Noah or bring him something. This evening we ended up eating in what can only be described as someone's shop — tinsel still up, shelves of stock behind us, a red floral plastic tablecloth, and Noah grinning from the stroller. Not a restaurant so much as a corner of Thailand that happened to have food and a spare table. It was perfect.
We also took a ferry to continue our journey south. Jesper was holding Noah and standing on the deck watching the port town disappear behind us. The ferry had these beautiful bright blue railings with ornamental patterns — very Thai. Noah was fascinated by the water and the boats.
Days 4–8 — April 5–9: Phi Phi Islands
We took a ferry to Phi Phi and ended up staying for several days. Our first stop was Maya Bay — yes, THE Maya Bay from the movie "The Beach." And yes, it was absolutely packed with tourists. But honestly? Standing there with Noah on his shoulders, surrounded by those insane limestone cliffs and that turquoise water, Jesper didn't care one bit about the crowds. It was breathtaking.
Noah wore his green arm floaties and his checked hat and looked like the happiest little tourist on the beach. Then, somewhere between the cliffs and the crowds, the day caught up with him and he crashed out completely — fast asleep in the stroller on the boat deck, dummy in, soft toy in hand, while the rest of the boat oohed at Maya Bay. Travelling with a toddler means the most spectacular scenery in Thailand is, occasionally, nap scenery.
We found a lovely little white bungalow right near the beach on Phi Phi. This is the beauty of backpacking Thailand — you just show up, find a place, and it's usually both charming and cheap. The longtail boats were lined up on the white sand beach, the water was crystal clear, and we thought: we could stay here forever.
We hired a longtail boat and explored the coast around Phi Phi. Jesper sat with Noah in the front of the boat, Noah leaning over the side, pointing and chattering at the turquoise water — utterly in it, not just looking at it. There is something about seeing your toddler on a longtail boat in Thailand that makes you feel like you're doing parenthood right.
Line took Noah into the water and he absolutely loved it. With his green arm floaties on, he was splashing around in the warm, shallow, crystal clear water like he'd been doing it all his life. This was probably the first time he really went "swimming" and his face was pure joy.
When the tide went out it left a huge flat playground, and Noah marched straight off across it on his own — Line a few steps behind, belly and all, letting him lead. He'd stop to inspect every shell and rope of seaweed like a tiny beach inspector signing off on the day's finds. You could clearly see Line's pregnant belly in the photos from these days — we were very much a family of soon-to-be four on this trip.
We upgraded to a bigger room with dark tile floors and a proper bathroom. Backpacking with a toddler means you appreciate a good room more than you ever did before.
The days on Phi Phi convinced us that this whole "traveling with a baby" thing was not just possible — it was wonderful. Noah was thriving: swimming, exploring, eating, and charming everyone he met. We were not ready to go home. So we packed up and headed south to Koh Lanta, where we would have the most terrifying and the most beautiful experiences of the entire trip.
Continue reading: Koh Lanta, surviving a tsunami warning, and exploring Krabi with a 1-year-old →
Our second trip: Christmas in Thailand with a 3-month-old — 8 months later we were back →
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