4Globetrotters

By LineogJesper on July 28, 2024

Arriving in Cusco we had booked the Salkantay trek in advance starting already the next day with pickup at 4.15am. At 550 USD per person with the company “Salkantay Trekking” it was considerably more than we would usually spend on a tour so we were excited to learn how much different it would be compared to the more budget friendly options we usually choose.

When comparing prices you should however be very aware of what is included and what is not. The advertised price might e.g. not include national park entry, bus and entry to Machu Picchu, food, train from Aguas Calientes, sleeping bags, trekking poles etc. etc. While the “luxury” option we choose this time was definitely more expensive it is less of a difference when you add it all up.

We were picked-up on time in a really nice mini-van with wide and comfortable seats and we all slept for most of the ride to our breakfast stop. 

Hike to our first overnight stop

To be honest the first part of the Salkantay hike should just be considered a mild warm-up. You do get a few nice views but roads and civilization are present all the way along the route and you mostly just hike next to an aqueduct for 3 hours. Vitus was still recovering so he made the trip by car instead together with the horseman and the two chefs.

After getting our skydomes the chefs prepared a nice lunch. Having two chefs dedicated to our group of just 8 people was a concept we have not tried before and we they prepared delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner for us the first 3 days until we reached Aguas Calientes.

After lunch it was time to hike up to Humantay Lake. A steep hike scheduled for 1.5 hours. Noah had set his mind on getting back to shape and made it in 28 minutes (not counting the 2 breaks where he had to wait for the rest of us). The lake was every bit as beautiful as it looks in the pictures.

Vitus decided to stay back to be ready for the challenging hike over the 4600 meter pass the following day.

Hiking over the Salkantay pass 

On the second day it was time to hike over the Salkantay pass. After breakfast we were ready to start the hike at 5.15am. At this point our hiking group had been reduced to 4 people as one of the others had had to return to Cusco because of asthma, and Vitus, Line and a really nice American guy chose to ride horses to the top (120 soles / 32 USD per person). Vitus was not at all fit for the trek up to the pass, so it was the right decision, and Line and Vitus had a nice riding experience together.

We don’t know if it was the coca tea we had in the morning or if we were finally getting used to the elevation but Jesper and Noah flew up the mountain side and made the top in record time and without feeling the least bit tired. 

Line and Vitus were dropped off at the top of the pass, and after we had some more tea and a sandwich it was time to head down on the other side. A 20km mostly downhill hike to Collcapampa and our overnight stay and the mountain sky view huts. 

At this point Vitus was feeling much better and he basically ran down the mountain with neither of us being able to keep up. He would then stop and wait 5-15 minutes for the rest of us. The views were nothing but spectacular (especially the first part) and about halfway down our chefs waited for us with another freshly cooked 3 course meal. Finally everybody was on top again and despite the very long and challenging downhill we were just happy to see Vitus happy and in good health.

We reached the mountain sky view huts at around 5 pm and went to bed early after a great dinner.

Hike to the jungle domes

The next day it was time for a more easy/moderate 17 km. hike to the jungle domes. With only a few steep sections along the way and about 300 vertical meters uphill in total the third day was much less challenging and a good way to recover and be ready for the 27 km. hike on the fourth day. The views were really nice along the way and we had the chance to taste the local fruit and visit a coffee plantation to learn about the production process and taste the final product.

Arriving at the jungle domes early in the afternoon we had the chance to go to visit some hot springs. As it involved more than an hour’s drive on narrow, winding, gravel roads we opted to stay back, play cards and relax (the visit to the hot springs are normally not included and costs 60 soles per person including transportation and entry – even if we were paid 1000 soles to do it we would, however, still have opted out 🙂 )

Hike to Aguas Calientes

The next day we had another early start at 5.45am and began the 800 meter vertical climb up to Llactapata where we would get the first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Everybody did well and with a clear sky we had a great view of the area and the terraces at Machu Picchu far away. 

The downhill proved one of the most challenging so far and seemed to continue forever. This is the part where we all appreciated our trekking poles the most as they really help relieve the strain on knees and calves. Ours even has an spring system that works to take even more of the load off your wrists (bought for 40 soles a pair and worked flawlessly – surprising since renting a pair will cost you 25 dollars or around 85 soles).

After lunch at the bottom it was time for the flatter 17 km. hike to Aguas Calientes. You can choose to take the train the last 10 km. or walk along the tracks. We chose the walk as otherwise we would not really have done the full Salkantay trek and it should have been quite an easy part with very little elevation.

“Should have been” proved the right wording here as just 4 km. before the finish line Line suddenly became really sick and started throwing up. Obviously she had caught the same thing Vitus and Jesper had been struggling with previously. Again, we will spare you the details but it is safe to say that we barely made it back with her to the hotel room at Aguas Calientes and that the last 1.5 hours of that hike is best forgotten.

Visiting Machu Picchu 

The next morning it was time to visit Machu Picchu. Unfortunately Line was still very sick and only Jesper, Noah and Vitus could go with the group. She was, of course, very sad and dissapointed having come this far and not being able to experience Machu Picchu.

We, (mostly Jesper), had both been dreading and looking forward to the visit which might sound strange. We knew it would be very touristy and thus we were afraid that it would be one of the times where reality would just not meet our expectations. Fortunately we were wrong!

If you consider visiting Machu Picchu make sure to get one of the early timeslots (even with a ticket you have to get in within your allocated time slot). We were there around 6.15am and for the first 1.5 hours we got to view and explore the beautiful Inca city without it feeling crowded and overrun by people. It is safe to say that it took our breaths away. Such a beautiful and impressive structure in such a scenic place. A clear sky also did its best to present Machu Picchu in the best way possible.

We spent 3 hours at the site and the last 1.5 felt very crowded and you had to navigate the literally thousands of people visiting. It was still a very unique and beautiful experience and it was so sad that Line did not get the chance to join. We felt it was much like Yellowstone in the states, so beautiful and unique that you cannot help to be impressed even with the many other people around you and a very touristy feel.

After the visit we chose to walk down (you can take the bus down again for 12 USD). We would have preferred to walk up, too, to “earn it” but needing to get in around 6am that would have meant getting up around 3am (again) with no possibility for breakfast. The walk down was long and steep with mostly stairs all the way. We survived but at this point our legs were starting to strongly protest and called for at least 2 days of hiking free activities.

After lunch it was time to return by train and mini-van to Cusco after a challenging trek, great experiences but unfortunately also impacted a bit by sickness and especially Line missing out on Machu Picchu. 

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