4Globetrotters

By LineogJesper on August 6, 2024

After the Salkantay trek Line and Vitus had had their share of long drives and hiking. Thus they chose to spend a quiet day in Cusco while Noah and Jesper went on the Rainbow Mountain tour. Priced at 70 soles (+ 25 soles entry to Rainbow Mountain) including breakfast and lunch it is definitely one of the cheaper tours we have been on.

A chaotic start 

We were picked up at 4.30 and after a tour of Cusco to pick up other guests we were dropped off right outside the city for breakfast around 5.15. The breakfast (buns, omelet, juice, fruit and coffee/tea) was alright but it was a very weird setup. After we finished breakfast, about 25 minutes was spent explaining the details of the tour in Spanish, when they finished it was time for the English version which lasted about 2 minutes. Finally time to move on we thought, but now people went into the garden and started dressing up in Inca clothes next to weird plastic sculptures with neon lights. VERY strange at 6 O’clock in the morning 🙂

Back in the mini-vans we were given another round of introduction in Spanish. Asking for an English version it was clear that the guide did not know a word of English so after a stop we were transferred to another bus and an English speaking guide. At this point the introduction had already been given in English and a second round was apparently not in scope 🙂

We finally got going around 6.30. 2 hours after departing our guest house and still within 5 km. of our starting point. Not exactly an effective start of the tour.

Rainbow Mountain

After more than 3 hours of driving we finally arrived at the Rainbow Mountain parking lot. 

Since we wanted to visit both Rainbow Mountain and Red Valley we agreed with the guide that we would head out on our own instead of following the group. Because we had arrived late that meant we had only 2 hours and 40 minutes to cover the 10 km and 600 vertical meters at an altitude of between 4700 and 5200 meters. 

We reached the top of the Rainbow Mountain viewpoint after 49 minutes. We had prepared ourselves for disappointment as many reviews suggested the colors were strongly exaggerated on the photos displayed at the tour agencies. In reality we found that it was even more beautiful and that the pictures did not do it justice. The clouds parted just as we reached the top and we had a perfect view. 

After enjoying the view and the mandatory photos we hurried on to the Red Valley trail. At the control point we were asked to pay 30 soles per person to continue. We had however been told beforehand that it was only 10 soles and Jesper claimed that was all we brought for the hike. Pretending that we were going to turn around they decided to take our 20 soles and let us pass 🙂

We reached the top(s) and enjoyed the beautiful views.

For some unknown reason a guide tried to keep us from going down the other side and into the actual Red Valley. He claimed that we would end up in another town and not make it back to the bus in time. Fortunately we had checked out the route on Komoot beforehand and thus decided to do it anyway.   

The hike was really nice with one spectacular scenic view after the other. Though Rainbow Mountain is the most famous Red Valley was the highlight of our trip.

The guide had told us to be back at 1pm at the latest and 2 minutes past 1pm we were back in the bus. Unfortunately we were the only ones and it took another 1 hour and 20 minutes before the rest of the group was back. We had had an amazing hike but had we known we had more than an hour more we definately could have used more time to take in the scenery and set a more relaxed hiking pace.

After another hour of driving it was finally time for lunch at 3.30pm – we were starving!

We made it back to Cusco around 8pm after a great but chaotic day.

Cusco City 

On our first day in Cusco we went on a “free” city tour. We learned a lot about the history of the city and Incan architecture.

At the end of the tour we were surprised to learn that they suggested a “donation” of about 35 soles per person considering that is the price of the paid city tour which lasts 1.5 hours longer and also includes transportation to the 4 archeological sites around Cusco. Thus we settled on a smaller donation but bought some of the special Capis coffee they had for sale in their small shop.

On our final day in Cusco we also went to see the Saqsaywaman ruins above the city. They were surprisingly impressive with massive stones (much bigger than those at Machu Picchu) neatly fitted together without the possibility to fit even a sheet of paper in the gaps. 

The San Pedro market also became a favorite of ours and we bought everything from ponchos to Inca figures, flutes, sun glasses, fruit, chocolate and Charangos (the Peru version of an ukulele that Noah just had to bring back home)

Cusco was also the place where we had the cheapest lunch and dinner so far. Just next door to our guest house we found the restaurant “Samaritano“. A very small restaurant that serves a starter and main-course for just 6 soles (1.5 USD). At first we were a bit sceptical but the reviews were great and we ended up eating there a couple of times for lunch or dinner. Great value for money.

If you are in Cusco we would highly recommend staying at Naty’s Guest House. It is nothing fancy but like the restaurant it is great value for money. The beds are comfortable, the location in the historical center is excellent, breakfast is good and you will have a hard time finding friendlier hosts than Naty and his wife.

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